Mastering Color Theory for Permanent Makeup: Color Theory Wheel
Jul 27, 2024 Mastering the Art of Permanent Eyeliner: Winged & High-Saturation TechniquesUnderstanding color theory is essential for anyone entering the permanent makeup industry. At the core of this knowledge is the traditional Color Wheel, which serves as the foundation for choosing, correcting colors in permanent makeup, and helps the PMU artist understand how colors interact, blend and contrast with each other. Knowing the color wheel and color theory shows the relationships between primary colors, secondary, and tertiary colors – but it ultimately determines a large amount of your success as a PMU artist.
tatter-tipKnowledge of color theory is essential to providing quality service to your clients. Whether you have a client with virgin skin or existing permanent makeup – color theory is crucial to your skillset!
You would be surprised at the amount of phone calls and emails we get on a regular basis about choosing the correct pigment for their client, regardless of how many years an artist has been in the industry. Where we are always happy to help the PMU industry – we want to pass on the knowledge and give you the power to understand color theory! It will not just help you with choosing pigments but will allow you to take the guesswork out of your craft!Nov 05, 2024
Here’s a simplified breakdown of the Color Wheel and its application in PMU.In the world of permanent makeup, eyeliner tattooing, particularly winged and high-saturation styles, presents both incredible creative opportunities and technical challenges. In our first Tatter-Tip Tuesday blog, drawing from our
Tatter-a-Fact PMU Podcastepisode, I’m excited to delve into the nuances of these styles and share insights from years of practice, emphasizing the importance of proper techniques, skin considerations, and pigment choices.
The Color Wheel BasicsThe Beauty and Complexity of Winged Eyeliner
Winged eyeliner tattooing is a standout technique for artists who excel at precision. Yet, the challenge of achieving symmetry on both eyes, accounting for individual skin elasticity, and managing eyelid movements makes it a skill that truly separates experienced artists from newcomers. On the podcast, Amber noted that the best winged eyeliner applications are tailored to each client’s unique eye shape and skin characteristics, allowing for a natural aging process that maintains the design’s integrity.
Primary Colors:However, winged eyeliner isn’t suitable for everyone. Key factors that disqualify candidates include excessive eyelid creases, highly veined eyelids, or vastly asymmetrical eye shapes. To those who don’t meet these criteria, offering alternatives like a “wedge” eyeliner or lash enhancement ensures they still get a beautiful, lifted look while respecting their skin's limits.
- BlueTechniques for High-Saturation Eyeliner: Bold, Black, and Lasting
- RedOur conversation also touched on high-saturation eyeliner—what we call "black, packed, and stacked." This style is a favorite among clients seeking a solid, defined eyeliner look. But creating a long-lasting, rich black eyeliner is not about just packing pigment; it requires strategic needle movements, pigment depth control, and often a specialized five-shader needle for consistent results.
- YellowAn important reminder for artists is that depth, combined with the right movements, plays a significant role in retention and color longevity. Unlike softer, pixelated eyeliners, high-saturation techniques are designed to implant pigment at a depth that endures, requiring less frequent touch-ups.
Pigment Choices: Iron Oxide vs. Carbon Black
Pigment selection can make or break an eyeliner tattoo's longevity. For example, a carbon black pigment offers deep, lasting color but can be challenging for fading if a client changes their mind in the future. In contrast, iron oxide-based pigments are easier to remove or fade over time but require a more experienced hand to achieve the same rich color as carbon black.
Watch the Full
Tatter-a-FactEpisode
For a deeper dive into these techniques and more personal insights, check out the full
Tatter-a-Fact PMU PodcastSecondary Colors: episode included below. In this episode, we explore everything from winged eyeliner design to pigment selection, tips for smoother client experiences, and strategies to achieve outstanding, long-lasting results.
- Orange (Yellow + Red)
- Purple (Red + Blue)Â
- Green (Blue + Yellow)
Train with Us: Winged & High Saturation Eyeliner Courses
If you’re looking to refine your skills or explore the creative possibilities of eyeliner tattooing, Girlz Ink offers two specialized courses:
Winged Eyeliner Course
: Learn everything you need to achieve perfectly symmetrical, beautifully designed wings for every eye shape that allows for a winged eyeliner. This course covers mapping techniques, design considerations, and strategies for achieving lasting, crisp lines.
Tertiary Colors: High Saturation Eyeliner Course
- Yellow-Orange
- Red-OrangeBoth courses are designed by industry experts with years of hands-on experience and offer a blend of theory and practical advice, with ongoing support from instructors.
- Red-Purple
- Blue-Purple .sidebar__panel { background-color: #ffffff; border-color: ; border-radius: 4px; border-style: none; border-width: 25px ; }
- Blue-Green
- Yellow-Green
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Complementary Colors
Complementary colors sit directly opposite each other on the Color Wheel. They are crucial in PMU for neutralizing or canceling out other colors. Mixing complementary colors together diminishes their intensity, resulting in a neutral brown. Here are the pairs:CATEGORIES
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All Categories
- Yellow and Purple color theory
- Green and Red eyeliner
- Blue and Orange needle theory
tatter-tip
Practical Application in PMUthe business of pmu
In permanent makeup, complementary colors help choose the right target color and correct flawed pigments. Here’s how they work:
- Yellow: Neutralizes and corrects purple eyebrows and undertones. .social-icons--1600295468756 .social-icons__icons { justify-content: } .social-icons--1600295468756 .social-icons__icon { color: #ff2981 !important; } .social-icons--1600295468756.social-icons--round .social-icons__icon { background-color: #ff2981; } .social-icons--1600295468756.social-icons--square .social-icons__icon { background-color: #ff2981; } @media (min-width: 768px) { .social-icons--1600295468756 .social-icons__icons { justify-content: } }
- Orange: Neutralizes and corrects blue or gray eyebrows and undertones, balancing cool tones in the skin. .social-icons--1600295468756 { text-align: left; } .social-icons--1600295468756 .social-icons__heading { color: ; }
- Green: Neutralizes and corrects pink, red, or orange eyebrows. Connect With Us
- Red: Neutralizes and corrects green eyebrows.
Unique Additions and Exceptions in PMU
In PMU, there are unique nuances beyond the traditional color wheel:
- Gray: Though not on the Color Wheel, it is treated like blue.
- Green: Used to correct orange, pink, and red eyebrows.
- Red-Orange: Preferred over true red to correct green eyebrows. .sidebar-recent-posts--1727375395371 { text-align: left; } .sidebar-recent-posts--1727375395371 .sidebar-recent-posts__heading { color: ; } .sidebar-recent-posts--1727375395371 .sidebar-recent-posts__title { color: ; } .sidebar-recent-posts--1727375395371 .tag { color: ; background-color: ; } .sidebar-recent-posts--1727375395371 .sidebar-recent-posts__date { color: ; }
- Orange and Yellow-Orange: Used for correcting green, depending on the exact tone and intensity.
Resources & SupportThe Financial Foundations Every PMU Artist Needs for a Sustainable Career
As a PMU artist, your dedication to mastering your craft is crucial. Color Theory is an essential component to delivering lasting results for your clients you can be proud of. We’re pride ourselves that we can support you on your journey.Apr 17, 2026
Here are some resources for you to support you to master color theory that takes into your growth in mind. Dive into the intricacies of color theory to help build or refine your skills!
The PMU Education Gap: Why Artists Struggle With Healed Results
Online Academy Course – Beyond the Epidermis® by Teryn DarlingApr 03, 2026
- This is one of the most comprehensive color theory courses you will ever take on PMU specific color theory. Is Microblading Really a Dying Technique? Understanding PMU Misinformation
- Learn about skin, pigment science, pigment color & selection, modifiers, depth, saturation, technique and corrections… all of which directly affect your healed in color results. Mar 20, 2026
- You will have one year access, get a certificate of completion, have access to downloadable course handouts, get access to client consent and aftercare forms, and lifetime support.
Beyond the Epidermis™ - Interactive Reference Guide & Checklists by Teryn Darling
- This physical guide will empower you to understand and determine skin types in person and choose the right colors and/or modifiers for that skin type.
- Great resource to have in your procedure room that you can refer to at any time.
- The guide includes – 64-page interactive guide, laminated color theory poster, laminated color correct poster, laminated color PMU specific color wheel, erasable Beyond the Epidermis™
Girlz Ink Product & Education Facebook Board
.footer { background-color: #242424; } .footer, .footer__block { font-size: 10px; color: #ffffff; } .footer .logo__text { color: ; } .footer .link-list__links { width: 100%; } .footer a.link-list__link { color: #ffffff; } .footer .link-list__link:hover { color: #ffffff; } .copyright { color: #ebebeb; } @media (min-width: 768px) { .footer, .footer__block { font-size: 12px; } } .powered-by a { color: #ffffff !important; }- This is an invaluable resource to anyone who needs support with over 10,000 active and supportive members.
- Ask questions to a community that is there to be supportive and uplifting.
- Many artists come on the board and ask color related questions! © 2026 girlzinktraining.com
